How to Install Inexpensive Wall Paneling?
Installing wood wall paneling is a great way to add interesting tones and texture to room decor. When paneling is done right, it reflects good taste and a sense of craft. But when installation details are sloppy, the impression is lost. Doing the job right means thinking through the design, planning, wall preparation, layout, fastening and finishing thoroughly. To achieve a high-quality finished appearance, the devil is in the details.
Design Styles
A great variety of off-the-rack products that can be classified as "wall paneling" are available, so the first step is decide which is best suited to achieving the look you want and how much time and effort you want to put into the project. The table below illustrates some of the typical possibilities and suggests what it takes to achieve each. Of course, an infinite number of other looks can be achieved by mixing and matching materials and adapting the fundamental skills to your particular project. Here are five of the most common styles:
1) Library-Style Frame-and-Panel
Achieve with: Hardwood veneer plywood, wood moldings, wood stain and varnish.
Required tools: Tape measure, level, finish nailer or hammer, circular saw, saber saw and miter saw.
Skill level and cost: This style requires finishing, so it takes high skills and effort to pull off. It can also be expensive.
2) Vertical Groove Board Pattern
Achieve with: Solid tongue-and groove boards, milled with desired joints, wood stain and varnish, or use prefinished 4 x 8 sheet panels.
Required tools: Tape measure, level, finish nailer or hammer, circular saw, saber saw and miter saw.
Skill level and cost: This project requires moderate skills and is moderately low-cost. Note that if you're using prefinished sheet panels, you don't need to use finishing.
Style 3: Beaded Wainscot with Chair Rail
Achieve with: Solid tongue-and groove boards, milled with desired joints, or use prefinished 4x8 sheet panels, chair rail molding. baseboard molding and paint.
Required tools: Tape measure, level, finish nailer or hammer, circular saw, saber saw and miter saw.
Skill level and cost: This project requires moderate skills and is moderately low-cost.
Style 4: Barn Siding, Horizontal Pattern
Achieve with: Reclaimed solid lumber, wood bleach and wood stains.
Required tools: Tape measure, level, finish nailer or hammer, circular saw, saber saw and miter saw.
Skill level and cost: This project requires moderate skills and is moderately low-cost.
Style 5: 3-D Decorative Paneling
Achieve with: Proprietary molded plastic panels, paintable caulk and paint.
Required tools: Tape measure, level, utility knife and caulking gun.
Skill level and cost: No matter the design you choose, 3-D decorative paneling is moderately low-cost and require moderate skills to install.
Planning Your Paneling Project...
One of the keys to successfully transforming a space with wall paneling is not to overdo it. Remember that if you're planning to introduce a bold color or pattern, a little paneling can go a long way. For example, rather than finishing all four walls of a room floor to ceiling with heavy, dark wood that has a strong vertical groove pattern, apply panels to only one wall, or install the paneling as a wainscot that stops short of the ceiling.
If you're planning to redecorate an existing room with paneling, think through what it will take to adapt the design and materials to the space. One of the key considerations is the thickness of the material you choose. Four-by-eight-inch paneling sheets—prefinished or unfinished—are nominally ¼ in. to 3/8 in. thick, while solid boards range from 3/8 in. to 7/8 in.
Keep in mind that wherever a panel edge meets a finished opening—like at doors or windows—the panel edge needs to be concealed. If you can use thinner panels, you may be able just to butt the edges to existing casings, baseboards and other moldings rather than having to remove them and extend window and door jambs before resetting the moldings.
Also consider that if you choose solid-board paneling in a vertical pattern, you will need to prepare for fastening boards to the wall by applying horizontal furring strips. This will increase the finished wall thickness an additional ¾-in. plus the panel thickness, complicating the finished molding assembly at openings and outside corners. On the other hand, if furred-out paneling runs wall to wall between inside corners, the increased wall thickness shouldn't present a problem.
Wall Preparation
If your plan is to install ¼ in.-thick plywood or hardboard panels or thin composite 3-D decorative panels that will be nailed and/or glued in place, you must start with a flat, solid base wall finish like drywall or plaster. Check the wall for bulges and correct them structurally if necessary. Remove all protruding fasteners and repair any large holes or depressions. Remove all switch plates and other decorative electrical accessories, as well as the screws that hold switches and receptacles in junction boxes so that they can be repositioned on the same plane as the finished paneling surface. If the panel design features dark vertical grooves, it's a good idea to paint thick stripes of a similar color on the wall at locations where joints meet between panels to prevent "show-through," as joints tend to open and close with changes in humidity.
Thicker, solid-board paneling can be installed directly to wall framing, where solid-board vertical paneling will be installed, fasten horizontal blocking between studs spaced no more than 24 in. on center. Solid-boards can be applied directly to wall studs spaced 16-in. on center without blocking. Unfasten electrical junction boxes from framing so that they can be repositioned flush with the front edge of the paneling when it's fastened to the framing.
Laying Out Vertical Patterns
When planning the layout for 4 x 8 sheet paneling with a vertical pattern, consider these issues, which affect the finished appearance:
Vertical joints and pattern grooves must be plumb
The pattern should be more or less centered on each wall in a way that avoids conspicuously narrow, unequal-width strips at opposite corners
Inside corners are rarely exactly square and plumb, which means that you're probably going to have to scribe the edges of panels to fit neatly at corners
Using a level, mark a plumb line 48 in. from an inside corner on a wall where you wish to start installing 4-foot wide panels. Tack a full panel in place with one long edge aligned with the plumb mark, then check to see how the opposite edge fits into the corner. If the corner isn't straight and plumb, you'll see gaps. Use a compass, as shown, to trace the irregularities on the panel edge, then take the panel down and trim it with a jigsaw to fit the corner contours before fastening it permanently in place.
If the vertical board pattern is regular rather than random widths or varied, you may wish to shift your starting plumb mark to the right or left to center the pattern and avoid a narrow "sliver" at the opposite corner.
Laying Out Horizontal Patterns
Horizontal paneling should be laid out with the decorative pattern dead level. Check to see if the corner where the wall meets the ceiling is level, and mark your starting level guideline in a spot that ensures that a full pattern module will appear at the top of the wall.
It may not be necessary to scribe the top edge of the paneling to fill gaps between the top edge and the ceiling if you're planning to finish the transition with a crown molding. Pattern irregularities at the bottom of a wall can usually be concealed with baseboard molding.
Methods of Fastening Wall Paneling - Nails and maybe Adhesive!!
Whether you choose to install plywood, hardboard or solid-board paneling, it's best to set the material in the room where it will be installed at least a week before you start nailing it up so that it acclimates to the ambient humidity. This prevents seams from opening up if the material should dry and shrink or from buckling if it should take on moisture and swell.
Cut panels to size and cut holes for outlets and switches as needed. When working with a circular saw or jigsaw, cut panels facedown to minimize marring of the finished surface.
The general principles for fastening paneling are:
Use as many fasteners as you need of the correct size and type to be sure the paneling stays put and doesn't buckle.
Fasteners should be as inconspicuous as possible.
Don't try to drive fasteners flush with the finished surface with a hammer alone. Pick up a nail set and use it to set the nail flush to avoid marring the panel surface.
When applying thin, prefinished paneling sheets over drywall, use one and one-half inch ring nails matched in color to the pattern grooves in the material. Nails should be driven into the grooves at edges and within the field through the wall finish and into studs spaced no less than 16 in. apart.
To cut down on the number of nails required, consider applying construction adhesive to the back surface of thin ¼-in. panels before nailing them in place. Using adhesive provides insurance that paneling won't buckle over time if nails should begin to pop as a result of expansion and contraction of the panels or settling of the foundation.
Panel adhesive is available in tubs and tubes, and can be applied with a notched trowel or a caulking gun. Before starting to apply adhesive, make sure that the existing wall surface is clean, dry and sound. Scrape off any flaking paint or plaster. If the wall finish is at all glossy, sand it with medium sandpaper.
If working from a tub of adhesive, apply dollops of glue in strategic locations on the back of the first panel, then spread it all over, working toward the edges with a notched trowel. If applying adhesive with caulking gun, run beads in a serpentine pattern all over the back of the panel. Don't apply adhesive to more panels than you'll be able to set within 15 minutes.
After the glue has been spread, carefully set the panel in place against the wall surface. Most adhesive manufacturers recommend pulling the panel away from the wall momentarily after the first contact, then resetting it and pressing it in place. I like to drive a few color-matched ring nails at the top, bottom and center of the panel, then burnish it in place by running a hard rubber roller all over the surface with extra passes along the panel edges.
Where paneling is applied over furring strips, make sure the furring is nailed or screwed firmly through the wall finish and into the wall studs with 10d common nails or 3-in. drywall screws. For solid-board paneling, choose tongue-and-groove or shiplap stock. Drive finish nails (usually 6d) at an angle through the tongue no more than 24 in. apart; when fitted properly, the next board will conceal the fastener heads.
The Takeaways
Decorative wall paneling projects can be as simple or elaborate as you choose. No matter what style you choose, even if you don't spend a whole lot of money and effort, paneling will look great if you think things through and avoid silly mistakes.
About the author: Michael Chotiner has worked as a cabinet maker and general contractor in construction for many years, and contributes articles on do-it-yourself home projects for Home Depot. To review a wide range of paneling choices, including styles discussed by Michael, you can visit http://www.homedepot.com.
What is Wood Paneling, How to Install Wood Wall Paneling?
What is wood paneling?
Wood wall paneling is an exterior or interior wood cover prepared from wood. The wood wall paneling is done to give a rich, modern and smooth look to the walls while also insulating the walls. The wood paneling method is used to facilitate more comfort and décor to walls. The wood panels are available in glossy or matte finish as per the requirement of the customers. Wood interior wall paneling is done to clad the inner walls of a house or building with a decorative and polished wood coating while wood cladding for exterior walls is done to give a rich and glorious entrance to residential buildings/ commercial buildings.
Step by step process for the installation guide on wood interior wall paneling
Installing a wooden wall panel requires a lot of precious and correct measurements. It is a step-by-step process you need to perform for getting the best results. You will have to start from the corner and then continue with the middle section for proper cladding/paneling.
Here are the steps you need to follow for installing wood wall paneling:
Estimate the rough of panels that will be required for paneling. Take measurements while checking the circumference of the room and dividing it by four. Cut out the doors and window areas from the paneling.
Check the current condition of your walls. You need to check whether the wall is incapable of bearing the new cladding or not. Scratch your nails and check the porous form of the wall.
If your walls are not even smooth, you can add furring strips to level the wall. This will also provide some strength and proper leveling to the walls.
Starting from the top, space the furring strips horizontally while also placing a vertical strip between the horizontal furring.
Stand the panels with the wood sticks on the wall to allow air circulation between the wall and panels
Use a 2-inch foam brush to paint the wall head to mark where the panels will be joined. Make small markings so the joints will be less visible.
Check the measurements before cutting the panels and starting the installation. From the corner, cut the panels as per the switchboards, windows, doors, etc.
Place the panels on the floor and use a jigsaw to cut the panels. Let the paneling stick to the walls.
Now, secure the panel with adhesive or nails. Apply adhesive at the gap of 10 inches and press the panel to the adhesive.
Press the panels to avoid air bubbles and let them stay. Follow the same process for applying panels to the other walls and areas.
Apply finishing nails to the top of the panel. Hold the bottom with a baseboard. Allow some gap between 2 sheets to let the paneling stick in a better way.
Also, color sticks can be sued on the paneling to fill holes, gaps, or stains on the panels. The paneling can be done from hardwood, pine, teak wood, etc. take care while performing paneling to get a rich and polished look for your walls.
How to Install DIY Wall Paneling in Your Home: An Easy 6 Step Guide
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DIY wall paneling is an easy way to add architectural features to your home that doesn’t require a lot of time. It’s also a cost-effective way to give any room a whole new look.
I’m so thrilled with how our wall paneling turned out in my husband’s new home office. I had a vision in mind and it totally delivered to elevate the entire room to a more refined space.
There are so many different ways you can add wood paneling and molding to walls, in fact I shared a super easy tutorial for picture frame molding in our dining room here.
But for this project, I wanted the wall panels to have more of a recessed look to them. Meaning the wall paneling looks built up to allow the wall to appear more set back. I think it gives the wall a bit more depth and character.
Let me show you what I’m talking about.
Just the simple addition of some decorative molding to each of the boxes is what gives the wall panels that inset look.
So let’s dive into this easy DIY wall paneling project and I’ll break it all down for you step by step!
The tools you’re going to need for this project are fairly beginner friendly and the wood cuts are mostly going to be straight or 45 degree angles.
DIY Wall Paneling Tools
DIY Wall Paneling Materials
*The exact length and amount of wood materials will depend on the size of your wall and which type of pattern layout you choose.
1″ x 4″ MDF boards / wood paneling available at most DIY stores
skirting board or baseboards
wood filler
instant grab adhesive / liquid nails
decorative wood strips or molding (ensure that whatever molding you choose has a flat 90 degree angle to sit flush against the sides of your MDF boards.)
How to Install DIY Wall Paneling in 6 Simple Steps
Step 1 – Prepare your wall for installation
The first step is to prepare your wall surface for your new wall paneling. You’ll want to gently remove the existing baseboards if you plan to reuse them and reattach after the wall panels are up.
Start by using a utility knife to score along the caulk line where your baseboard meets your wall. Then, use a crowbar inserted in that line to gently pry the baseboard away from the wall. Once you’ve removed the baseboard, you can use a pair of pliers to pull out any remaining nails from it.
Now that your baseboard is removed you’ll want to cut into the adjacent baseboards to allow for the new depth of the wall when it’s complete. This is important, because you’ll be reattaching your baseboard to the new wall panel which will extend out further than it previously did.
You can do this by lining up a piece of your new MDF board along the adjacent baseboard, marking off the width of the board for your cut.
Using an oscillating or multi tool with s straight blade, you’re able to cut into your adjacent baseboard to remove the excess allowing for a deeper gap for your MDF board to now easily slide in.
Step 2 – Plan your wall layout
The next step is to determine the layout of your paneled wall. I suggest drawing a mockup on paper of how you’d like your wall to appear.
I knew that I wanted at least 4 boxes across the width of the wall and I played around with the measurements to see if my wall height would also allow for 4 boxes. Unfortunately they would’ve been more rectangular than I liked, so I settled on 3 vertical boxes for each column.
This process is entirely dependent on the amount of wall space you have to work with.
You’ll want to begin by using a stud finder to locate and mark the positions of your wall studs. This will allow for the strongest attachment of your boards.
Step 3 – Install your wooden panels
Now you’re ready to install the bottom MDF panel spanning the entire width of your wall.
Cut the board down to your desired length using 45 degree cuts at both ends.
Before installing it, determine how high you want the board to sit away from the base of your floors. We used spare MDF boards cut down as a placeholder for the new height. These will also act as wall studs allowing you to reattach your baseboard at the end.
Use a spirit or level laser to ensure your board is level. Then install it using a brad nailer, securing your board to the wall along each of the stud locations.
Continue the process of measuring and cutting your top and side MDF panel boards to attach to the wall creating a “picture frame” layout.
Now that you have your layout determined and the outside of the wall framed out, you can start installing your vertical panels for each column.
These are cut on the miter saw using simple straight lines and should span the entire height for each column. Make sure to once again align your boards so that they’re level prior to securing them to the wall.
Next, you’re going to create your boxes by also cutting the MDF boards with a straight line. Then attach each of the horizontal panels within the columns.
It’s a good idea to measure the width for each of these vertical boards, because your columns may not have been installed as precise as you think. And you want to aim for a very tight fit of where your vertical and horizontal boards meet. This will minimize any large gaps.
Step 4 – Install decorative trim molding
Now you’re ready to cut and install the decorative molding trim lining the inside of each of your new panel boxes. This process is pretty straight forward, but can be a bit time consuming given the amount of measurements you’ll need to take.
It may be helpful to mark all of your measurements and label your pieces as you go. Then you can make your cuts all at one time to minimize the back and forth trips from your workspace to the paneled wall.
Each of the inside pieces of decorative molding are going to be cut at 45 degree angles to join together inside the wall panel boxes.
This was about the time I got so excited because I could finally see the accent wall taking shape. I loved the depth the decorative molding added to the wall panels.
Step 5 – Finishing work
Finally, you’re ready for the finishing steps. As tedious as this part of the project can be, it’s super important to do if you want to ensure a professional looking finish for your wall.
Always start by filling any nail holes and gaps where your boards join together using wood filler. You should be able to allow this to dry and sand within the same day.
Next, you can reattach your baseboard to the wall. This part can be a little tricky because you’ll need to get that multi tool back out and once again cut into your adjacent baseboards if you’d prefer a mitered cut. Otherwise you can use a coping saw to join your baseboards back together.
This post from The Spruce has great information for deciding between a mitered or a coped joint.
Lastly you’ll want to caulk along the outside frame of your accent wall, along the baseboard and within the insides of each decorative panel box. This helps create a seamless look, especially if you don’t have a perfectly flat wall.
Step 6 – Paint your new DIY paneled wall
Painting is final and best part of your new accent wall. Personally, I prefer using an eggshell finish on all of my walls. Especially if it has a lot of decorative trim work.
It’s the perfect sheen for durability, but it’s also very forgiving and conceals a lot of flaws on finishing work. Two coats worked well for me, but it can depend a lot on the color and brand of paint you’ve selected.
I went with Valspar brand paint tinted in the color “Cyberspace” from Sherwin Williams. It’s the most amazing moody blue color that floats between blue and charcoal depending on the amount of lighting in your space.
I also decided to go a bit more modern and paint all of the trim work in the same color. I did increase the sheen to an eggshell finish for durability. It also adds a little contrast to the walls.
Got a question? Drop me a comment below. I love helping out. And stay tuned, because I can’t wait to show you the full office reveal soon, It’s gonna be great!
